How to ride Buenos Aires colectivos at night to reach parrillas locals actually trust
There’s a specific kind of joy in boarding a Buenos Aires colectivo at night with nothing but a street map in my pocket and the smell of charcoal promising a late dinner. Over the years I’ve learned that the best parrillas — the ones porteños actually go to — don’t advertise with flashy signs; they’re discovered by taking buses to neighborhoods where locals eat late, reading the body language of people queuing for slices of grilled...