what to order at lagos suya roadside stalls and how to stay safe, polite and photogenic
I crouched by a glowing charcoal brazier on a Lagos street as steam and spice-scented smoke braided into the evening air. The suya cook, his hands moving sure and quick, threaded skewers of thinly sliced beef and brushed them with a fiery peanut-chili rub that crackled on the coals. Around us, commuters, students and late-night market stall vendors paused for the same ritual: a hot skewer, a handful of sliced onions and a cold sachet of water or...